Well, for a little bit! So it’s the end of Central America - it’s been great, marvellous and all that but I suggest you just entertain yourself by looking at around 400 pictures I posted in the previous bunch of articles :) (I know you guys hate reading ;))

Back to the “First World”, back to (more) luxury stuff… off to the USA for a little road trip! Upfront I was sure entering the country would be the biggest challenge in this final part of my trip, but after answering only 100 questions and being held up for another 15 minutes in customs I was allowed to enter! (what the hell is it with me and customs anyway!?)

It eventually took a while to get to Phoenix but all went more or less as planned… which freaked me out since that didn’t happen once in the last 10 months ;) Anyway, I was happy to get back in the heat since that’s what I had been in most of the time. So off goes our road trip… first stop: Sedona! Famous for red rock formations in the desert (and extremely good musicians), a generally nice atmosphere and good sushi ;)

- see pics! Second stop: Grand Canyon! Guess there’s no need to explain but I’ll do it anyway; as you know, everything rips up after a while. So does the earth so there’s the Grand Canyon: a rip with rock, trees and big birds :) Life’s just so simple at time :)

Stop three: Las Vegas! No, I’m not broke. I’m not a millionaire either. And whatever else they say about “Sin City” is true! But it’s nice to see it for once and experience what over the top is really like :) Also felt unique

as I’m one of very few people that has come out clean and sane ;) LOL

Stop four: Disneyland Posh sh*thole Los Angeles! Time to increase the Disneyland-factor on this trip, and it can’t be made much easier than here in LA - Universal Studios was fun though :) Oh, and the walk of fame isn’t that impressive… though I do expect the ReneMiltenburg.Com star to be included there in about 15 years ;)

Stop five: Home! Oops…. NOT! Racing back to Phoenix and getting ready to head back home… aka the hardest part! Nothing special there, except for an early trip to the airport and standing in line on the curbstones :) As I had a 7-hour layover in New York I decided to add an extra stop to this last part, so here we go… Stop six: Manhattan! I couldn’t make it much cheesier than sitting in the AirTrain, heading straight into Manhattan, walking down a few blocks and going up the Empire State Building - but hey, it’s one of those “gotta-have-dones” in life, don’t you think? Besidews, the views were nice ;)

Enjoy the bunch of pics I posted down here. Next up: arriving home and The Aftermath! (like someone’s ever going to read that - LOL!)

-René

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Red rocks - Sedona

Rockin' on... Grand Canyon!

FYI: the thing is rather big...

Sorry, that list is too long! I’ll write it down in an “about me v2.0″ section at some point in time but not now. (Yes, there are some background developments going on with regards to this website, so stay tuned!)

So, back to business. From city to city, bus to truck and the hills to the coast; time to complete the loop! After Bayamo (sshhh, be quiet!) it was time for some more coastal work; off to Trinidad! FInding a place to stay is easy as there are about 1200 rooms for rent and 400 tourists scattered throughout the city… so you’re pretty much being nailed to the wall by casa owners desperately trying to rent their place to you - lol! Having to deal with such a thing a 6am is all the more fun! Other than that, this has definately been the nicest city I’ve been to in all of Cuba, though I know a lot of people will argue this :) Trinidad forms a nice mix of Caribbean and Latino/Cuban culture, along with beautiful surroundings in the inland as well as a pretty beach. Quite the place to crash down for a couple days and get drunk so that’s what I did! The days merely consisted of city-viewing, beach-bumming, exchanging stories (and laughing my butt off) and dancing! Great to be there so go watch pictures like you always do!

Next up; a final visit to Habana! Since I knew I’d be passing through here a couple more times I decided not to visit all parts in one go so here’s part 3! You know, buildings, old cars and stuff… so on to Vinales; tobacco country, backed by limestone rocks and a lot less linear than the rest of Cuba - or so it seemed at first sight :) I got there together with this guy (you’re welcome Trav!) and went on cave visits, biking trips and some longer hikes, in the middle of the day while it was 33C (what were we thinking again!?). Visiting local tobacco farmers, discovering (well, sort of) a cave nobody told us about and going on bike trips is fun after a lot of city-flavour!

After Vinales it was time to crash down in Las Terrazas, a Soviet-style model eco-village (try to say that 10 times in a row), pretty much out of the way of most places. Pretty fit to chill out for a while and explore a little more nature, after all I now realise I like being near nature more than being in big cities :) Part of the fun was staying in a bird’s nest-style house but I forgot to take a picture, sorry!

Then, the final stop: Habana, getting ready for the return leg to Guatemala. This basically meant I re-re-re-reconfirmed my flight for the 5th time - although it was fun I didn’t want to go through this hassle again - and found the time to help Travis out trying to file a report for his stolen camera… NOT!!! A couple hours, three different police stations and A LOT of talking later, we were simply being told this: “Your story about this theft is strange, so how about we start investigating your story and hold you in custody until we sort this out?”. Ehmmmm… (sweat, tremble, gnawing for breath) … not quite what we need only 4 hours before our flight’s departure. Anyway, we eventually managed to get the hell out of the police station and subsequently the country :) Socialism, at some point it just gets to you… bye bye Cuba!

The next article will be posted on Wednesday night so stay tuned and come back soon!! Hasta luego!!

-René

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A church! After all it's been a while!

Trinidad's street "life"

Trinidad - unique rooftops and hills ;)

Just like I said: hello! As some of you might know, Internet in Cuba is just like internet back home… in 1973! So there’s the reason for not posting anything lately, though of course there’s plenty of things to tell! I’ll be back in Guatemala on the 16th, so by then new articles should start pouring out here :) Oh, here’s something I could mention already: My ETA in Amsterdam is… 31 May at 2pm, just in case you felt like showing up / sending death threats / generally annoy me / etc!

Thanks for your patience (or annoyment!) and come back soon!

Regards from Trinidad,

René

Right - new article, new country: Bienvenidos a El Salvador! It`s a relatively small and well-developed hub in Central America… also it`s supposed to be the most violent country in the region - sounds like fun! ;) It seems like there aren`t too many tourists here (apart from the beaches) but nonetheless there`s plenty of stuff to do, so let`s take off…

The border crossing between Guatemala and El Salvador (known as Anguiatú) was the most intriguing until now. While crossing, loads and loads of questions ran through my head: “Why am I being let through without trouble?” , “Where are the 25 bicycle-taxi-guys that try to run off with my bag?” , “Where are the regular 50 money-changers?” , “Why is nobody trying to rip me off in general?” and “Why is the migracion-guy not trying to make me pay some non-existent tax?”. Very strange. A little scary, even.

Once I got into El Salvador it was another walk to a point where buses (to Santa Ana) would pass. Fortunately I ended up in some funny watering hole; while waiting for the bus I got into a talk with a guy that threw about half a month salary into the jukebox, only to hear this song over and over again. Welcome to El Salvador - woo-hoo! :)

I decided to hit the western highlands first, in an area called “Ruta de las Flores”. That`s right: lots of flowers, but no hippes. Crashed down in a town named Juayua, which is mainly famous for its food fair. You could probably guess: I stuffed up quite a bit! Next day decided to rent a bike and visit the following spots:

Apaneca: A nice climb up (what the hell happened to my physical condition!?) - the town is quiet but nice. Had fun watching a colourful procession with locals - after all it was Semana Santa!

Laguna (not so) Verde: Crater lake in a volcano, just outside Apaneca. Nothing verde about it as it was blue :) Makes a nice ride though and chatting with locals was - as always - fun!

Concepción de Ataco: Upon entering the town I instantly noticed one thing: everyone was smiling! It took an instant to realise why; never seen so many colourfully painted houses together. If you´re in a bad mood, go here - a cure is guaranteed! Even I was smiling at the end :) Trivia: Missed the entrance to town and as a result had to bike an extra 5km uphill. Could use the exercise though!

Next day agreed to climb a waterfall - something different from all the swimming, right? :) My assumption the climb would be up proved to be wrong; we went down instead! No secured ropes, belts or other gear, it was all bare hand- and foot-work for the 15-20m difference in height. One word: amazing! Later on my guide told me he was one of very few people that were allowed to guide this tour, and even then not many people did it. I asked him why and the answer was as simple as astonishing: A short while ago a large group of guides and tourists got killed down there. Ever since it`s been quiet… even though locals figured out who did it and “took care” of the problem. I don`t want to know any more details…

As Easter weekend was approaching, which basically means all of Central America`s infrastructure gets jammed, I decided to chill out at a spot I really miss: the beach! Playa San Diego became the place of choice; not too crowded, nice waves and a really cool place to hang out!

As this trip continues, I moved back to the mountains, slowly digging into El Salvador`s history. Stay tuned for more news… soon!

-René

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Juayua - heart of town

Biking material

Procession Apaneca - nice dresses btw! :)

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As I said before; “Variety is the spice of life”. I know, that article wasn´t too good but it´s still true :) The things I did in the last couple days did indeed vary strongly, so here we go:

Water: I mean fresh water; something different from yet another beach this time. I´m talking about Lake Atitlan to be exact. Visited Panajachel and took a first glimpse of this gorgeous lake, surrounded by volcanoes, indigenous communicites and whatnot. Also bumped into a funny procession as apparently Easter is nearing, which is supposed to be pretty hectic here. Keep you posted!

Lava: Yes, hot stuff coming from the center of the Earth :) Up close and personal on Volcan Pacaya, close to Antigua. Pretty interesting and not always equally safe, but still good fun. Who needs Volcan Arenal anyway!?

Culture: Yes, again… Antigua this time, a colonial marvel close to Guatemala city. Intensely beautiful, and completely different from the rest of Central America since it´s so well-organised, clean and (relatively) safe. Started to feel like home… scary!

Ocean: Almost forgot how much I loved the beach, so time to head down for a change! Monterrico is hot, humid and a nice spot to crash down and hang out for a bit. Different from everything else I´ve seen lately but hey, it´s an addiction remember?

Coffee: Lots of plantations around, but hadn´t really had a close look at any of them yet. Coban was the place; got a (private!) tour on a small coffee finca and learnt a lot more about this addictive stuff. Indeed; I have been moving my dirty hands through beans from which you are now having your daily shot of caffeine. How does that feel? Enjoy it!

Natural pools: Swimming pools suck; they smell like chlorine and are congested with hair. In Holland, that is. Guatemala offers all natural pools on a huge cascade. Almost as blue as the Caribbean Sea, almost as clean as European tap water!

Cave-swimming: I know, that word doesn´t exist but it´s the best way to describe it. Swimming through a cave (Las Marias, near Semuc Champey) with a candle in your hands, a unique experience and most of all a lot of fun. Hectic at times too, since passages are narrow / steep and slippery at times! There was a little consequence to this one, so keep reading!

Bats: Ugly mice with wings, flying really fast. Had a few hundred of those around my head at the Lanquin caves, which they all seem to fly outof at about the same time. Interesting, especially the fact they fly straight past you but don´t strike you at all.

Health care: The Las Marias cave, a hole, my twisted motorics and a few sharp rocks. Need I say more? Ended up cutting my foot (4cm in length, 1cm deep) and am now stiched up, for the first time in my life. I love traveling, you just experience something new every day! ;) I now know what a hospital looked like in the 1940s, though they did a pretty good job on cleaning (45 minutes because I was too stubborn to leave the tour after this happened) and stitching me up. To be continued!

-René “leave me alone, it´s just a little scratch” Miltenburg

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Lake Atitlan ... and me

Jesus is coming!

Some real lava, up close!

Yeah, I know, I`m sorry… its been way too quiet out here in the last couple weeks but it`s just that I seriously geared up on traveling speed and as such don`t have too much time to write stuff down here. Anyway…

“Rene Miltenburg! Stop complaining about the fact you cannot dance… either DO something about it or just shut up!”

This is what I (sort of) told myself on a minivan trip between San Cristobal and country #8 on this trip: Guatemala! My first destination: Xela - aka Quetzaltenango - located in the country`s western highlands! Yes… more C, culture and cold! However, before arriving there I had to cross yet another border. This is the 13th time this trip (believe it or not!) … and the third time I got into trouble. I guess I`m not doing too well, statistically speaking… Anyway, the conversation between me and the migracion guy about having or not having paid tourist tax was interesting. Click “read more” for a short transcript! :)

Whatever, fast forward; Xela isn`t quite the place you just hang out at - people come here to accomplish something, be it learning Spanish, doing some serious hiking, learning Mayan languages, or … learn salsa dancing! In my case, mainly the latter applied though inbetween I also ascended Volcan Tajumulco - this highest peak in Central America. After all, you can`t really say you topped Central America if you haven`t been to the highest point, can you? :) Pictures once again are worth more than words, so have fun viewing! The erupting volcano you see is Santiaguito; one of the most active volcanoes in the region so no, we`re not talking coincidence (or bad karma) here! In order to chill down, we also visited some hot springs (H-O-T!) and - for a change - the cheesiest church on the western hemisphere (where´s the competition? ;))!

As for the dancing - again, believe it or not - I did actually book some serious progress! “Unfortunately” I couldn`t take any pictures :) but for those interested I`ll be happy to give some demo`s once back home! Yes, you heard that right, home… where`s that again!? I`ll come bck to you on that topic soon - stay tuned!

-René  “this is a friggin` bootcamp!” Miltenburg

PS: In light of respect for local indigenous cultures I cannot publish any detailed pictures of the people and / or elements of their daily lives. Taking pictures without any explicit consent is believed to steal spirits and is as such not appreciated - let alone these pictures being published. Thanks for understanding.

PPS: The pictures of the Tajumulco hike will be included tomorrow(-ish)!

Update 19-Mar: Done!

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Xela - "any given Sunday"

Indigenous market we bumped into - nice ´n busy!

Xela´s surroundings - Volcan Santamaria (amongst others)

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