Sorry, that list is too long! I’ll write it down in an “about me v2.0″ section at some point in time but not now. (Yes, there are some background developments going on with regards to this website, so stay tuned!)

So, back to business. From city to city, bus to truck and the hills to the coast; time to complete the loop! After Bayamo (sshhh, be quiet!) it was time for some more coastal work; off to Trinidad! FInding a place to stay is easy as there are about 1200 rooms for rent and 400 tourists scattered throughout the city… so you’re pretty much being nailed to the wall by casa owners desperately trying to rent their place to you - lol! Having to deal with such a thing a 6am is all the more fun! Other than that, this has definately been the nicest city I’ve been to in all of Cuba, though I know a lot of people will argue this :) Trinidad forms a nice mix of Caribbean and Latino/Cuban culture, along with beautiful surroundings in the inland as well as a pretty beach. Quite the place to crash down for a couple days and get drunk so that’s what I did! The days merely consisted of city-viewing, beach-bumming, exchanging stories (and laughing my butt off) and dancing! Great to be there so go watch pictures like you always do!

Next up; a final visit to Habana! Since I knew I’d be passing through here a couple more times I decided not to visit all parts in one go so here’s part 3! You know, buildings, old cars and stuff… so on to Vinales; tobacco country, backed by limestone rocks and a lot less linear than the rest of Cuba - or so it seemed at first sight :) I got there together with this guy (you’re welcome Trav!) and went on cave visits, biking trips and some longer hikes, in the middle of the day while it was 33C (what were we thinking again!?). Visiting local tobacco farmers, discovering (well, sort of) a cave nobody told us about and going on bike trips is fun after a lot of city-flavour!

After Vinales it was time to crash down in Las Terrazas, a Soviet-style model eco-village (try to say that 10 times in a row), pretty much out of the way of most places. Pretty fit to chill out for a while and explore a little more nature, after all I now realise I like being near nature more than being in big cities :) Part of the fun was staying in a bird’s nest-style house but I forgot to take a picture, sorry!

Then, the final stop: Habana, getting ready for the return leg to Guatemala. This basically meant I re-re-re-reconfirmed my flight for the 5th time - although it was fun I didn’t want to go through this hassle again - and found the time to help Travis out trying to file a report for his stolen camera… NOT!!! A couple hours, three different police stations and A LOT of talking later, we were simply being told this: “Your story about this theft is strange, so how about we start investigating your story and hold you in custody until we sort this out?”. Ehmmmm… (sweat, tremble, gnawing for breath) … not quite what we need only 4 hours before our flight’s departure. Anyway, we eventually managed to get the hell out of the police station and subsequently the country :) Socialism, at some point it just gets to you… bye bye Cuba!

The next article will be posted on Wednesday night so stay tuned and come back soon!! Hasta luego!!

-René

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A church! After all it's been a while!

Trinidad's street "life"

Trinidad - unique rooftops and hills ;)

Yep, that’s exactly what’s being expected from tourists in Cuba. If linear tourism is being offered, don’t try to get off the track or Big Brother might not be happy. Yeah right… time to try things out!

So after a little bit of Habana (and again staying with my friend’s parents) it was time to explore more of the island; time to head east! Osmar left for his new apartment in Moa, quite eastward and asked me to visit him there instead of Habana (read the previous article if you don’t follow this). No problem… all it takes is an 800-km overnight bus trip - Vamonos!

As most of you know there’s a strict division between stuff available for Cubans (limited) and tourists (less limited, though still very linear). Being a good civilian you don’t challenge this and stick to whatever Castro & Co. set up for you, so you just see and experience the same stuff as everyone else. Just the thing for me - NOT! It’s an instant challenge to do things (and I mean everything) the Cuban way. There’s certain pros and cons to it, the pros being the price and the cons being quality, standing in line, going through a hassle etc). This article explains perfectly… and yes, most of you know about my (overly expressed) critics against Lonely Planet but this is something they pointed out really well!

Anyway, let’s take off! First stop: Holguin. Reason: transit. Means of transport to Moa: Cuban truck, commonly fit for cattle (unfortunately I’m not joking, again…). Despite reluctance of government-transport-company-whatever-kind-of-workers to tell me how to get on those locals eventually helped me out: pull a number! Cool, just like the butcher back home! Number 81 up to 119 would be let on the next truck, or so I was told. So I got in line, got a number, looked at the note and it said….. 341! See above to read what I said about cons ;) A lot of hassling, sweet talking, nice looks and a friendly local got me number 101 eventually - I like free trade - so I got on but won’t ever repeat this exercise; me getting on means a Cuban who can’t afford the “luxury” bus has to wait another 2 hours to catch the next truck. Yes, I felt (and plead) guilty…

Moa isn’t quite the place for tourists - and for good reason. A nearby mine causes severe pollution, local population suffers from a wide variety of health problems and the air is noticeably messed up - my eyes started irritating within 12 hours after my arrival. Anyway, it’s friendship that counts and the festival and families we visited to were nice. It was also interesting to see a market for Cubans only (notice the variety in the picture) and to have a look past the screen the beloved government put up (here’s one reason for not posting while still being there ;)).

As I’d like to get older than 32, I soon took off to Baracoa (lying I was a student so I could get into a Cuban taxi) - on the easternmost tip of the island. The surroundings are gorgeous and after a (relatively) big deal of city life I was up for some more nature. So here I go: biking, beach-bumming, climbing a hill (El Yunque - 563m) and generally hopping around and being unable to sit still. Check out the pictures I’d say! The easiest way to get around was by bike, which has been my best and closest encounter with Cuban quality so far; about 5km out of town, in the middle of almost nowhere, the chain broke (in 2 pieces, that is) - reason enough to see an afternoon going down the drain but locals brought the solution. How to MacGyver a bike back together: It’s simple; use a piece of iron from the asphalt, some grass, a rock, spit and… voila - you’re all set! I hereby claim being unable to remember this so you guys won’t start asking me to fix your bikes next time ;)

There’s one way to leave Baracoa; by national bus company Viazul, thus linear… so I linearly went to Santiago de Cuba. I apologise once again for being sour, but I don’t understand why everyone’s so lyrical about the place; although music and nightlife are nice and the city features the funkiest shop I have ever visited (and probably will ever visit) there isn’t that much to impress me with. One day was all it took to continue my linear route to Bayamo where I stayed in a linear family house (vomit!) and visited linear stuff (barf!) - if it wasn’t for Labour Day! Thank heaven for that - another local festival and no tourists around! Since Bayamo seems to be even more quiet than Baracoa this is a welcome alternative to … linearism :) Labour Day might be (yet another) socialism-flavoured party in Cuba, but it’s definately worth to get out there and meet a lot of people. After receiving about 20 warnings (yeah, yeah… tourists obvisouly weren’t supposed to go there!) a bicycle taxi took me to a big field outside the city centre where the celebration took place. No parades, no propaganda and a lot of music, drunk people and acrobatics in order to get cheap Cuban beer (see picture below) - looks like fun eh!? Anyway, it’s fun hanging out with locals despite the 50 100 173 attempts of people to slash my bag (come on, you honestly think I’d carry anything of value on my back!?).

Alright, enjoy the pictures below! Next update: Sunday - life’s all about friends and music!

-René

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Means of transport - Holguin (illegal for tourists)

Means of transport - Moa (illegal for tourists)

Means of transport - Moa (illegal for tourists... SIGH!)

Just like I said: hello! As some of you might know, Internet in Cuba is just like internet back home… in 1973! So there’s the reason for not posting anything lately, though of course there’s plenty of things to tell! I’ll be back in Guatemala on the 16th, so by then new articles should start pouring out here :) Oh, here’s something I could mention already: My ETA in Amsterdam is… 31 May at 2pm, just in case you felt like showing up / sending death threats / generally annoy me / etc!

Thanks for your patience (or annoyment!) and come back soon!

Regards from Trinidad,

René

Right - new article, new country: Bienvenidos a El Salvador! It`s a relatively small and well-developed hub in Central America… also it`s supposed to be the most violent country in the region - sounds like fun! ;) It seems like there aren`t too many tourists here (apart from the beaches) but nonetheless there`s plenty of stuff to do, so let`s take off…

The border crossing between Guatemala and El Salvador (known as Anguiatú) was the most intriguing until now. While crossing, loads and loads of questions ran through my head: “Why am I being let through without trouble?” , “Where are the 25 bicycle-taxi-guys that try to run off with my bag?” , “Where are the regular 50 money-changers?” , “Why is nobody trying to rip me off in general?” and “Why is the migracion-guy not trying to make me pay some non-existent tax?”. Very strange. A little scary, even.

Once I got into El Salvador it was another walk to a point where buses (to Santa Ana) would pass. Fortunately I ended up in some funny watering hole; while waiting for the bus I got into a talk with a guy that threw about half a month salary into the jukebox, only to hear this song over and over again. Welcome to El Salvador - woo-hoo! :)

I decided to hit the western highlands first, in an area called “Ruta de las Flores”. That`s right: lots of flowers, but no hippes. Crashed down in a town named Juayua, which is mainly famous for its food fair. You could probably guess: I stuffed up quite a bit! Next day decided to rent a bike and visit the following spots:

Apaneca: A nice climb up (what the hell happened to my physical condition!?) - the town is quiet but nice. Had fun watching a colourful procession with locals - after all it was Semana Santa!

Laguna (not so) Verde: Crater lake in a volcano, just outside Apaneca. Nothing verde about it as it was blue :) Makes a nice ride though and chatting with locals was - as always - fun!

Concepción de Ataco: Upon entering the town I instantly noticed one thing: everyone was smiling! It took an instant to realise why; never seen so many colourfully painted houses together. If you´re in a bad mood, go here - a cure is guaranteed! Even I was smiling at the end :) Trivia: Missed the entrance to town and as a result had to bike an extra 5km uphill. Could use the exercise though!

Next day agreed to climb a waterfall - something different from all the swimming, right? :) My assumption the climb would be up proved to be wrong; we went down instead! No secured ropes, belts or other gear, it was all bare hand- and foot-work for the 15-20m difference in height. One word: amazing! Later on my guide told me he was one of very few people that were allowed to guide this tour, and even then not many people did it. I asked him why and the answer was as simple as astonishing: A short while ago a large group of guides and tourists got killed down there. Ever since it`s been quiet… even though locals figured out who did it and “took care” of the problem. I don`t want to know any more details…

As Easter weekend was approaching, which basically means all of Central America`s infrastructure gets jammed, I decided to chill out at a spot I really miss: the beach! Playa San Diego became the place of choice; not too crowded, nice waves and a really cool place to hang out!

As this trip continues, I moved back to the mountains, slowly digging into El Salvador`s history. Stay tuned for more news… soon!

-René

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Juayua - heart of town

Biking material

Procession Apaneca - nice dresses btw! :)

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As I said before; “Variety is the spice of life”. I know, that article wasn´t too good but it´s still true :) The things I did in the last couple days did indeed vary strongly, so here we go:

Water: I mean fresh water; something different from yet another beach this time. I´m talking about Lake Atitlan to be exact. Visited Panajachel and took a first glimpse of this gorgeous lake, surrounded by volcanoes, indigenous communicites and whatnot. Also bumped into a funny procession as apparently Easter is nearing, which is supposed to be pretty hectic here. Keep you posted!

Lava: Yes, hot stuff coming from the center of the Earth :) Up close and personal on Volcan Pacaya, close to Antigua. Pretty interesting and not always equally safe, but still good fun. Who needs Volcan Arenal anyway!?

Culture: Yes, again… Antigua this time, a colonial marvel close to Guatemala city. Intensely beautiful, and completely different from the rest of Central America since it´s so well-organised, clean and (relatively) safe. Started to feel like home… scary!

Ocean: Almost forgot how much I loved the beach, so time to head down for a change! Monterrico is hot, humid and a nice spot to crash down and hang out for a bit. Different from everything else I´ve seen lately but hey, it´s an addiction remember?

Coffee: Lots of plantations around, but hadn´t really had a close look at any of them yet. Coban was the place; got a (private!) tour on a small coffee finca and learnt a lot more about this addictive stuff. Indeed; I have been moving my dirty hands through beans from which you are now having your daily shot of caffeine. How does that feel? Enjoy it!

Natural pools: Swimming pools suck; they smell like chlorine and are congested with hair. In Holland, that is. Guatemala offers all natural pools on a huge cascade. Almost as blue as the Caribbean Sea, almost as clean as European tap water!

Cave-swimming: I know, that word doesn´t exist but it´s the best way to describe it. Swimming through a cave (Las Marias, near Semuc Champey) with a candle in your hands, a unique experience and most of all a lot of fun. Hectic at times too, since passages are narrow / steep and slippery at times! There was a little consequence to this one, so keep reading!

Bats: Ugly mice with wings, flying really fast. Had a few hundred of those around my head at the Lanquin caves, which they all seem to fly outof at about the same time. Interesting, especially the fact they fly straight past you but don´t strike you at all.

Health care: The Las Marias cave, a hole, my twisted motorics and a few sharp rocks. Need I say more? Ended up cutting my foot (4cm in length, 1cm deep) and am now stiched up, for the first time in my life. I love traveling, you just experience something new every day! ;) I now know what a hospital looked like in the 1940s, though they did a pretty good job on cleaning (45 minutes because I was too stubborn to leave the tour after this happened) and stitching me up. To be continued!

-René “leave me alone, it´s just a little scratch” Miltenburg

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Lake Atitlan ... and me

Jesus is coming!

Some real lava, up close!

Exit post #2 this time! We´re about to take Mayo to the airport so here´s a little coverage on what we did in the last few days. Let´s see, hmmm, right… ehm… not much! After Rio Lagartos we made another effort to get to Isla Holbox. Once again: no bus! 2 seconds of thinking (accumulated) made us decide to go to Isla Mujeres instead. We don´t understand why everyone is so lyrical about the place, you might as well call it Little Cancun. Anyway, the beach was OK and we got to chill out a bit. After all things have been so intense… ;) Oh yeah, the turtle farm was nice and so were some ruins we visited. Pity they locked us in and we had to climb over the fence to get out, which then again was good fun!

Our third effort of getting to Isla Holbox succeeded and we got to stay in a real mellow place, a crossing between a campsite, cabaña-thingies, dormitories, hammock-hotel etc! Holbox is way more laid-back than Isla Mujeres and we decided to stick around a bit longer. Some walks down the beach (the entire beach is over 27km long) took us along some very interesting spots, such as mangroves and weird sandbanks. The latter can be decribes in one word: surreal! See pictures of course :) Another short horseback riding trip was fun too, mainly because Mayo´s horse started kicking the **** out of Rene´s. Anyway, even Rene didn´t fall off and the scenery was nice too!

At this moment we are back in Puerto Morelos (anything is better than Cancun ;)), in a situation as described above. Enjoy the short series of kitsch pictures. Take care!

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Isla Mujeres - Playa Norte

Mayo. Oh yeah, and a sandbank.

Sandbank, nice view!

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