Yep, that’s exactly what’s being expected from tourists in Cuba. If linear tourism is being offered, don’t try to get off the track or Big Brother might not be happy. Yeah right… time to try things out!

So after a little bit of Habana (and again staying with my friend’s parents) it was time to explore more of the island; time to head east! Osmar left for his new apartment in Moa, quite eastward and asked me to visit him there instead of Habana (read the previous article if you don’t follow this). No problem… all it takes is an 800-km overnight bus trip - Vamonos!

As most of you know there’s a strict division between stuff available for Cubans (limited) and tourists (less limited, though still very linear). Being a good civilian you don’t challenge this and stick to whatever Castro & Co. set up for you, so you just see and experience the same stuff as everyone else. Just the thing for me - NOT! It’s an instant challenge to do things (and I mean everything) the Cuban way. There’s certain pros and cons to it, the pros being the price and the cons being quality, standing in line, going through a hassle etc). This article explains perfectly… and yes, most of you know about my (overly expressed) critics against Lonely Planet but this is something they pointed out really well!

Anyway, let’s take off! First stop: Holguin. Reason: transit. Means of transport to Moa: Cuban truck, commonly fit for cattle (unfortunately I’m not joking, again…). Despite reluctance of government-transport-company-whatever-kind-of-workers to tell me how to get on those locals eventually helped me out: pull a number! Cool, just like the butcher back home! Number 81 up to 119 would be let on the next truck, or so I was told. So I got in line, got a number, looked at the note and it said….. 341! See above to read what I said about cons ;) A lot of hassling, sweet talking, nice looks and a friendly local got me number 101 eventually - I like free trade - so I got on but won’t ever repeat this exercise; me getting on means a Cuban who can’t afford the “luxury” bus has to wait another 2 hours to catch the next truck. Yes, I felt (and plead) guilty…

Moa isn’t quite the place for tourists - and for good reason. A nearby mine causes severe pollution, local population suffers from a wide variety of health problems and the air is noticeably messed up - my eyes started irritating within 12 hours after my arrival. Anyway, it’s friendship that counts and the festival and families we visited to were nice. It was also interesting to see a market for Cubans only (notice the variety in the picture) and to have a look past the screen the beloved government put up (here’s one reason for not posting while still being there ;)).

As I’d like to get older than 32, I soon took off to Baracoa (lying I was a student so I could get into a Cuban taxi) - on the easternmost tip of the island. The surroundings are gorgeous and after a (relatively) big deal of city life I was up for some more nature. So here I go: biking, beach-bumming, climbing a hill (El Yunque - 563m) and generally hopping around and being unable to sit still. Check out the pictures I’d say! The easiest way to get around was by bike, which has been my best and closest encounter with Cuban quality so far; about 5km out of town, in the middle of almost nowhere, the chain broke (in 2 pieces, that is) - reason enough to see an afternoon going down the drain but locals brought the solution. How to MacGyver a bike back together: It’s simple; use a piece of iron from the asphalt, some grass, a rock, spit and… voila - you’re all set! I hereby claim being unable to remember this so you guys won’t start asking me to fix your bikes next time ;)

There’s one way to leave Baracoa; by national bus company Viazul, thus linear… so I linearly went to Santiago de Cuba. I apologise once again for being sour, but I don’t understand why everyone’s so lyrical about the place; although music and nightlife are nice and the city features the funkiest shop I have ever visited (and probably will ever visit) there isn’t that much to impress me with. One day was all it took to continue my linear route to Bayamo where I stayed in a linear family house (vomit!) and visited linear stuff (barf!) - if it wasn’t for Labour Day! Thank heaven for that - another local festival and no tourists around! Since Bayamo seems to be even more quiet than Baracoa this is a welcome alternative to … linearism :) Labour Day might be (yet another) socialism-flavoured party in Cuba, but it’s definately worth to get out there and meet a lot of people. After receiving about 20 warnings (yeah, yeah… tourists obvisouly weren’t supposed to go there!) a bicycle taxi took me to a big field outside the city centre where the celebration took place. No parades, no propaganda and a lot of music, drunk people and acrobatics in order to get cheap Cuban beer (see picture below) - looks like fun eh!? Anyway, it’s fun hanging out with locals despite the 50 100 173 attempts of people to slash my bag (come on, you honestly think I’d carry anything of value on my back!?).

Alright, enjoy the pictures below! Next update: Sunday - life’s all about friends and music!

-René

[Show as slideshow]

Means of transport - Holguin (illegal for tourists)

Means of transport - Moa (illegal for tourists)

Means of transport - Moa (illegal for tourists... SIGH!)